Here is a list of tools needed to replace a Fasco Bath Fan Motor:
- 4-in-1 screwdriver
- Adjustable wrench
- Caulk gun
- Drill bit set
- Drill
- Pry bar
- Utility knife
- Flexible insulated duct
- 2-6” hose clamps
- Aluminum duct
- Roof cement (tube)
- Roof vent cap
- Roofing nails
- Sheet metal screws
Fasco Bath Fan Motor Replacement
Here are the steps to replace your Fasco bath fan motor:
Step 1: Remove the grille
Pull the grille down and remove the springs from the housing by pinching them. Find the model number of your Fasco bath fan motor.
Step 2: Remove the Fasco motor
Unplug the Fasco bath fan motor from the unit. Remove the plate that supports it. Release the tab that is on the unit for the plate to tip out of its housing. Alternatively, you can remove the retaining screw.
Step 3: Install the new Fasco motor
Remove the screws or nuts, and pull off the Fasco blower wheel. Install the new Fasco bath fan motor. Reattach the new motor to the blower wheel.
At times, the Fasco bathroom fan motors fail and ‘die’. You can easily find a replacement Fasco motor.
Take note of the fan’s model number, and then remove the fan grille. Vacuum the dust off of the fan’s housing so that the number on the label can be shown.
Fasco bath fans come in various designs, but their parts are more or less the same, such as the motor.
Simply turn off the main power supply to the breaker panel. Unplug the fan and then remove the motor plate from your Fasco bath exhaust fan. Your Fasco motor plates could either be released by pressing them, or by prying them off the sides of the fan housing. Some of them might be secured using screw(s).
Remove the blower from the motor’s shaft, so you can remove the Fasco bath fan motor from the plate. The removal process can be done either by prying or pulling. To install the new Fasco bath fan motor, you can reverse the removal process.
Prevent Roof Rot
Step 1: Find the location of the vent hole
At the center of the marker screw, cut out about 4-1/4” of shingles. Drill a starter hole for your jigsaw blade and then proceed to cut out the sheathing of the roof.
Step 2: Trim back the shingles
Minimize the upper layer of shingles to a size that fits well around the hood of the vent. If any nails may prevent the vent’s flange from slipping right under the shingles, remove them right away.
Step 3: Install a rigid duct
Fasten a duct that is about 6” to the roof sheathing using three screws. Seal around the duct using roof cement.
Step 4: Set the vent hood
Slide the hood right under the shingles and cement them onto the vent’s flange. Use roofing nails that are about 1-1/4” to secure the lower edge of the flange.
Step 5: Connect the duct to the fan
Use the sheet metal screws that are about ½” to connect the flexible duct to the exhaust port. If the port and duct are of different sizes, use an elbow and reducer.
Step 6: Connect the duct onto the vent hood
Slip the insulation of the unit over the duct and then secure it using a hose clamp. Insulate the upper end of the duct and connect it similarly.
If the attic is above the bathroom, you can use a shortcut. As opposed to running the duct through the roof of your house, you can end the duct inside the attic. The result would be that the fan fills the attic with moist air, which feeds wood rot. Especially in the winter, frost may form in the attic. Therefore, the water can damage the ceilings as soon as the frost begins to melt.
If you do not have a cap on your roof, there are high chances that your Fasco bath fan motor will vent into the attic. Run a new duct tape through the roof. This should not be a complex task but you will still be required to work in the attic and on the roof as well.
During the summer, the attic can become dangerously hot, so it is recommended to work on your fan on a cool day. Always wear protective gear such as a dust mask and eye protection. A trouble light and a large piece of plywood can also come in handy. To make your work easier; measure the exhaust port diameter and pick a spot near the fan where you want the duct to exit the roof. Use a screw to find the location from outside the unit.